Wolfgang Güllich

Profession: Rock Climber

Biography: Wolfgang Güllich was a German rock climber considered the strongest climber in the world during his era. He also established some of the hardest grade climbs of his time and for pioneering training techniques that remain central to the discipline. Güllich's legacy includes the creation of innovative equipment such as the campus board, which is still widely used among climbers today.

Born in West Germany, Wolfgang Güllich discovered his passion for climbing at a young age, with his father playing a significant role in his early exposure to the sport. A chance meeting with the mountainer Reinhard Karl helped him set his mind towards climbing seriously.

Tragedy struck when his brother, Fritz, died in a climbing accident in 1978. Nonetheless, Güllich's climbing career was already taking shape: by 16, he accomplished the first free ascent of Jubiläumsriss. His move to the climbing hub of Frankenjura in 1981 allowed him to further engage with and learn from the climbing community.

While in Frankenjura, Güllich's circle included notable climbers such as Kurt Albert and Jerry Moffatt. His reputation extended internationally following successful ascents in the United States.

In 1984, he achieved a significant milestone by establishing Kanal im Rücken, the first 8b (5.13d) route. This accomplishment was a precursor to even more challenging routes like Action Directe established in 1991, which was the world's first climb rated 9a (5.14d).

Güllich's prowess wasn't limited to sport climbs; he also made impressive first ascents on big walls, including Eternal Flame on the Nameless Tower and Riders on the Storm on the Paine Towers.

Güllich stayed away from competition climbing, preferring to challenge himself with physical routes and the creation of new ones. His training was disciplined and innovative, exemplified by his development of the campus board—a training device that climbers use to build finger strength and power.

Güllich also contributed to the literature of the sport, as a co-author of "Sportklettern heute," as well as advocating for climbing techniques such as bouldering and the deadpoint.

Born: October 24, 1960
Birthplace: Ludwigshafen, Germany

Generation: Baby Boomer
Chinese Zodiac: Rat
Star Sign: Scorpio

Died: August 31, 1992 (aged 31)
Cause of Death: Car crash